Post by reptileman27 on Nov 27, 2005 22:27:08 GMT -5
Cornsnake Care Sheet
INTRODUCTION: Cornsnakes are one of the most popular and commonly kept snakes out there,and for good reason. Cornsnakes are hands down the best begginer snake out there in my opinion. Cornsnakes are in the family called ratsnakes and are also called red rats. Corns get there name from there pattern and because there found in and around corn fields. They do not eat corn lol.
SIZE & HANDELING: Cornsnakes are small snakes with a average size of 4 to 5ft but 6ft is possible but not common. Corns are generally very docile and easy to handle because of there small size and good dispostions. Baby corns like any baby snakes tend to be more nervous and sometimes nippy but should calm down with age and handeling. Corns are not venomous but do have a mouth full of small sharp teeth and can bite. The bite is like pin pricks and may draw blood,depending on the size of the snake. Even though corns are not venomous there still is a risk of infection if you get bitten and it breaks the skin. Always wash out all bites good and putting alchol on it wouldnt hurt. Always wash your hands with soap and water after handleing any snake .
HOUSING & SUBSTRATE: Baby corns can be housed in a 10 gallon with a secure cover. Its better to start out with a smaller tank like a 10 gallon for babys because big tanks can stress them out. If you still want to use a bigger tank then make sure there is lots of cover and places to hide. Adults can be housed in 20 long gallon tank with a secure cover but bigger is better. I use cover clips with my snake cages and love them and never had a snake escape when using them. There are a number of different things that can be used for a substrate. A few are newspaper,paper towels,reptile carpet,or aspen shavings.
HEATING & LIGHTING: Cornsnakes do not require any special lighting like UVB. Under Tank Heaters(UTHs) work best for heating corns. Regular house hold bulbs also work good for heating corns. The UTHs or light should be placed on the one side of the cage where the hide spot is. The water dish should be on the cool side. By doing this you allow the snake to thermoregulate,which means the snake can decide where it wants to be. If its to hot it can go to the cool side and if its to cool it can go to the warm side. Daytime temps should be between 80 and 85 degrees and the temps can drop down to 70 or 75 degrees at night.
FOOD & WATER: Cornsnakes are constrictors and feed on mice and rats in captivity. Babys corns should start out frozen/thawed pinkys and work there way up from there. Adult corns eat jumbo adult mice or small rats. The best way to unthaw mice/rats is to put them in a container with warm water and make sure there completly unthawed before feeding to the snake. Corns should be fed every 7 to 10 days. Corns should have clean water availiable at all times. The water dish should be large enough for the snake to coil up in if it wants.
INTRODUCTION: Cornsnakes are one of the most popular and commonly kept snakes out there,and for good reason. Cornsnakes are hands down the best begginer snake out there in my opinion. Cornsnakes are in the family called ratsnakes and are also called red rats. Corns get there name from there pattern and because there found in and around corn fields. They do not eat corn lol.
SIZE & HANDELING: Cornsnakes are small snakes with a average size of 4 to 5ft but 6ft is possible but not common. Corns are generally very docile and easy to handle because of there small size and good dispostions. Baby corns like any baby snakes tend to be more nervous and sometimes nippy but should calm down with age and handeling. Corns are not venomous but do have a mouth full of small sharp teeth and can bite. The bite is like pin pricks and may draw blood,depending on the size of the snake. Even though corns are not venomous there still is a risk of infection if you get bitten and it breaks the skin. Always wash out all bites good and putting alchol on it wouldnt hurt. Always wash your hands with soap and water after handleing any snake .
HOUSING & SUBSTRATE: Baby corns can be housed in a 10 gallon with a secure cover. Its better to start out with a smaller tank like a 10 gallon for babys because big tanks can stress them out. If you still want to use a bigger tank then make sure there is lots of cover and places to hide. Adults can be housed in 20 long gallon tank with a secure cover but bigger is better. I use cover clips with my snake cages and love them and never had a snake escape when using them. There are a number of different things that can be used for a substrate. A few are newspaper,paper towels,reptile carpet,or aspen shavings.
HEATING & LIGHTING: Cornsnakes do not require any special lighting like UVB. Under Tank Heaters(UTHs) work best for heating corns. Regular house hold bulbs also work good for heating corns. The UTHs or light should be placed on the one side of the cage where the hide spot is. The water dish should be on the cool side. By doing this you allow the snake to thermoregulate,which means the snake can decide where it wants to be. If its to hot it can go to the cool side and if its to cool it can go to the warm side. Daytime temps should be between 80 and 85 degrees and the temps can drop down to 70 or 75 degrees at night.
FOOD & WATER: Cornsnakes are constrictors and feed on mice and rats in captivity. Babys corns should start out frozen/thawed pinkys and work there way up from there. Adult corns eat jumbo adult mice or small rats. The best way to unthaw mice/rats is to put them in a container with warm water and make sure there completly unthawed before feeding to the snake. Corns should be fed every 7 to 10 days. Corns should have clean water availiable at all times. The water dish should be large enough for the snake to coil up in if it wants.
